Behind the collection – Laurel Wreath Menswear Autumn 2014


Behind the collection – Laurel Wreath Menswear Autumn 2014

Friday, 14th Nov 2014

               

Pictured above, the Static Cable Knit Sweater

For autumn 2014, our men’s Laurel Wreath Collection has a sharp, defined aesthetic.

We spoke to collection designer John Tate to find out the background behind the collection, which was inspired by British New Wave and electronic music of the 1980s.

Hello John, tell me a bit about the story behind the collection.

The thinking behind the collection was that it took inspiration from an imaginary night out, probably in London’s Soho district. There is a good mix of dark tones and pops of colour running throughout – reflecting the dark of the night, and the bright lights of the area. I feel there is a hedonistic undertone running through the collection. My thoughts were about going out, losing myself in the nightlife and trying to visualise how everything can start to get a bit blurry…

Yeah, details in the collection seem to reflect a night out?

I took direct influence from patterns and images you might see on a night out. One of the main thoughts behind the knitwear this season was the idea of visualising static, or white noise. The knitwear pieces feature a blurred or fuzzed effect, woven in – the sort of thing you might imagine on a monitor at a gig or in a DJ booth, with sound levels going up and down.  

               

Pictured above, the Static Knit Crew Neck Sweater

Lots of the shirts feature a ‘blown-up gingham’ effect; moving the traditional micro-check gingham shirt to something a new and different. My thinking here was to reflect the ‘pixelated’ sensory effect you sometimes feel from being surrounded by bright lights and loud music. I also used a speaker-grill print throughout the collection. It looks a lot like a fine polka dot initially, but when the reference is mentioned you can see how the print has evolved from looking at the inside of a speaker. It’s subtle, but effective.

Was music an inspiration when designing this collection?

Definitely! I took particular inspiration from British post-punk/new wave electronic music of the 1980s – the sort of music you would imagine played at a dark club hidden away in Soho. Gary Numan and the Tubeway Army were probably the biggest influence overall, they have that real raw industrial sound to their music. But also the early side of the Human League, when they were more electronic than vocal. Soft Cell’s Non-Stop Erotic Cabaret album was also a big influence. That Soft Cell album is dark and hedonistic, it was a great reference point. 

You mentioned Gary Numan’s industrial sound…

Yeah, alongside the imaginary night out narrative behind the collection, I would say there is also an element in the collection taken from industrial Northern British towns – particularly Sheffield. The Human League originated in Sheffield, and had a very gritty, electronic early sound on tracks like Being Boiled. Soft Cell also originated in Leeds, before settling in Soho – their early single Memorabilia is again quite a tough, industrial sounding track so there is certainly a Northern context woven in too.

Were you involved in the photoshoot that accompanies the collection?

Yes I was - I actually helped choose the model. He had an element of David Sylvian from the band Japan about him. Japan were probably best known for the track, Ghosts – another track from the scene that inspired the collection, and I liked the idea of weaving this further into the visual presentation.

John, thanks for your time!

                   

Pictured above the Industrial Dot Print Shirt

See the men’s Laurel Wreath Collection for Autumn HERE

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via Woven in: the Fred Perry blog http://ift.tt/1192xMJ

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